Frequently Asked Questions

The movie star trailer is equipped with electric brakes that are activated with the trucks brakes. The electric trailer brakes on your movie star trailer are basically the same as the brakes in your tow vehicle. Hydraulic pressure is used to expand the brake shoes in your tow vehicle, while an electric circuit is used to perform the same function on your portable restroom trailer. This electric circuit uses a combination of electromagnets and the rotation of the brake drum to accomplish the movement of brake shoes against the drum.

Your electric brakes are wired to the towing vehicle through the electrical pigtail. When attached and properly adjusted, they distribute even braking power to both the towing vehicle and the specialty trailer.

Make sure to test the brakes on your trailer and adjust them as necessary, per the instructions of the brake controller manufacturer. Proper adjustment of the brakes can help to avoid dangerous swaying or jack-knifing on slippery pavement, or during an emergency stop. It is very important to achieve the proper balance between the brake action of both the trailer and tow vehicle.

Both sets of brakes were designed to stop only the vehicle on which they were installed. If one set of brakes is asked to absorb the load of the other also, excess heat is formed, which increases brake lining wear. If the tow vehicle’s brakes are used alone, the weight of the restroom trailer pushing on the back of the tow vehicle can cause jack-knifing. The correct method of brake synchronization has the Restroom Trailer brakes being applied with a slight lead over the tow vehicle’s brakes. Make sure this proper balance is achieved when the controller is installed and adjusted.

Before taking your railer on a trip, check for proper brake action on a short road test. Apply the brakes several times at different speeds and pressure. If wheel lock-up occurs, the brake shoe adjustment is too tight. If no restroom trailer brake action is occurring, brake shoe adjustment is too loose. Do not exceed a speed of 25 mph during this road test. Refer to the Brake/Axle Owner’s Manual for adjustment procedures and troubleshooting guide.

Add water to bowl

To add water to the trailer toilet, press the flush pedal part way down. Water flows into the bowl while flush ball remains closed. If the flush ball moves, let up on the pedal slightly. Adding water to an empty toilet bowl helps prevent holding tank odors from entering the living space. Adding water is recommended prior to flushing solids and toilet paper in the trailer toilet.

To flush, press pedal down until it contacts the floor. Release pedal after complete flush.

• When flushing liquids, press the pedal for 1-2 seconds.
• When flushing solids in a toilet, press pedal until contents are rinsed from bowl. Flushing longer than necessary will cause holding tank to fill too quickly.

A small amount of water will collect in the bowl after a flush to create an airtight seal

NOTE: To prevent holding tank odors from entering the living space, make sure a small amount of water remains in the toilet bowl of the movie star trailer.

If a trailer will be stored in freezing temperatures it should be winterized to prevent damage to the plumbing system and components. Freezing damage can harm any component of the system, including the water tanks, toilets, urinals, pumps, or trailer piping.

Before you begin to prepare the trailer for cold weather storage, a brief explanation of the plumbing system will help you to understand the operation of the trailer.

The plumbing can be divided into two separate systems. The fresh water system consists of those items which are used to deliver water for your use, while the waste water system is made up of the drains and tanks which store and remove water that has been used on the trailer. Both systems and components require some “winterization”.

If your new trailer was built with an on board fresh water holding tank then the plumbing system has the dual ability to be self- contained with onboard storage, or use facilities provided by an external pressurized source. In either case, the components of the trailer plumbing system operate like those in your home. Components of the plumbing system consist of strong, lightweight, corrosion resistant materials that provide long life and easy cleaning. By following the instructions outlined here, you can expect effi­cient operation with a minimum of trailer maintenance.

(It is important to note that if your trailer was manufactured during the fall or winter months the factory has anti- freeze placed in the water lines to protect them from freezing. The anti-freeze liquid can be recognized by its pink color. This anti-freeze should be flushed from the system after trailer is heated and before each time the trailer is placed into service).

WINTERIZATION – The winterization of the trailer can be accomplished by “adding anti-freeze to the plumbing system” OR by “draining and blowing the water out of the system”.

INSTALLING ANTI-FREEZE IN A TRAILER

The first common method to winterize the trailer is to remove the water and replace the fresh water system with an RV trailer brand anti-freeze. (This is available at any large retailer or RV dealer).

Level the trailer to help system drainage. Confirm you have a proper electrical source to the trailer.

DRAIN EXISTING WATER OUT OF TRAILER SYSTEM

Begin this process by first draining as much water out of the on board fresh tank and water lines as possible. The fresh water tank will have a drain located on the bottom of the tank which allows the water to be drained into the waste holding tank below the floor or if allowed, to drain to the ground outside.

 If your trailer has a water heater, first confirm the electric is turned off to the water heater so you don’t burn up the heating element in water heater when water is removed from your trailer.

1. Turn the water pump switch on.
2. Open all faucets. (Can begin with faucet or toilet farthest from water supply)
3. Run water until all water is drained from the fresh water tank and water lines. This water will be drained into your trailer waste water tank.
4. Drain the waste water tank to remove as much water and waste from the trailer as possible.
5. If the water heater has a drain, open and drain out water, then close the water supply valve and open the bypass valve to allow antifreeze to flow bypass the water heater. If there is no drain (which is common with small water heaters) the water heater will need to be removed or filled with antifreeze.

 ADD ANTI-FREEZE TO TRAILER WATER SYSTEM

An RV anti-freeze (propylene glycol)is recommended for your trailer. To add anti-freeze to the trailer plumbing system it can be drawn from the existing on board water tank by dumping anti-freeze in the tank or by drawing from an individual container. It will take several gallons to be added to the system.

1. After anti-freeze is dumped into the trailer fresh tank, turn on the water pump and open all of the fixtures until the pink anti-freeze flows out. (Can begin with faucet or toilet farthest from water supply)
2. Close each faucet as the pink solution flows freely from it. This also includes the water line to the toilet.
3. Perform this process with every trailer sink and toilet.
4. Confirm anti-freeze is in every p-traps for the toilets, flushing urinals (if applicable) and sinks. An amount of anti-freeze left in waste tank will prevent the trailer waste tank from freezing.

DRAIN & BLOW OUT WATER

To use the compressed air method to winterize the trailer, begin with the steps above to drain the existing water out of the system.

1. In order to clear the fresh water lines with air you will need an air compressor and a fitting to attach to the fresh water lines. Connect the air hose to the city fill connection.
2. If the trailer has an on board fresh water tank, open the fresh tank fill valve and let the compressed air clear the fresh tank supply line. Once the water has cleared this line, close the valve.
3. Open the city fill valve. Then go to each of the sinks, toilets and urinals and let them run until only dry air comes out. It may be helpful to begin with the fixture farthest from the air supply. It may take several tries of opening the trailer toilets & sinks until only air comes out and water has been removed.

Even though the water may have been removed from the fresh water system, you will still need to add anti-freeze to any P-traps where water may be trapped in the waste water system. This includes sinks, toilets or urinals.

Be sure to read the literature supplied with trailer plumbing components, such as the pump, for troubleshooting tips. Also remember that it is possible for an electrical problem to cause water system problems. Lack of power to the pump can be caused by a variety of reasons. If you are unsure of how to locate and/or repair a plumbing problem, it is best to have a qualified plumber handle the job

Yes!  Make certain that the following items have been checked and rechecked before you take your trailer on the road. Take a quick inventory of all items in your trailer to be sure they are secured.

Make certain all items inside of your Trailer are secured for travel. Also be sure doors inside the trailer are closed and latched securely.

Front Hitch Jack – The front hitch jack of your Trailer should be raised as far as possible.

Stabilizer Jacks – Both the rear and front trailer jacks should be raised as far as possible.

Doors and windows – Check through your Trailer to be sure that all doors and windows are closed and latched.

Pigtail – Check to be sure that the pigtail of your Trailer is connected properly to the tow vehicle’s electrical plug in.

Lights – The following lights should be tested on both your Trailer and the tow vehicle: for your Trailer: brake lights, warning lights, flashers, clearance lights, and taillights.

Hitch Coupler/Pin box- Inspect the hitch coupler or pin box on your Trailer to be sure they are secured.

Power Cord – The 110 volt shoreline cords on your Trailer must be unplugged from the external source and placed in its compartment with the storage hatch of your Trailer fastened shut.

Water Hoses and Shore Line Cords on your Trailer must be disconnected and all hose and pipe caps should be secured.

Steps- In upright position, folded or slide into transport position and securely pinned.

Tires – The proper air pressure for the tires on your Trailer is printed on the sidewall of the tire. Air pressure should always be checked when Trailer tires are cold in order to get the most accurate reading.

Before each trip check the tires of your Trailer for uneven wear, road damage, foreign objects or excessive peeling or bulging. Heat generated by surface friction will increase the tire’s air pressure approximately six to nine psi, so do not bleed air out of a hot tire since you run the risk of leaving your Trailer tires low on air pressure.

Yes, there is a warranty on the trailer and additional warranties on the appliances and some components that come with the trailer.  In order to to maintain the warranty there are recommended maintanence schedules that need to be followed.

Yes,  below is a list of some recommend inspection items.